Sharpening the Scandi grind. Initially, it doesn’t matter what kind of motion you apply, so long as the bevel stays flat. Basically, picture a Scandi Grind, but instead of a straight grind, it's curved. The convex grind is not common on normal production knives, for it is not as easily machine formed as the other grinds. Convex Grind. Since the bevel on scandi grind knives is so large and flat it is pretty easy to get the right angle for sharpening. Handle material- We prefer micarta for our bushcraft knife handles. Simply put, a scandi-vex is a traditional Scandinavian grind (synonymous with most bushcraft knives of this style) with the shoulders of the bevel rounded off, as you would find in a convex blade. Essentially a convex knife grind offers slightly lower durability of the edge than a saber grind, but cuts closer in performance to a scandi grind. To summarize, a 30 degree scandi grind is the best all-around grind for toughness, versatility, slicing, carving, batoning and ease of sharpening. Although it is not as easily sharpened as the scandi grind, it performs better at most bushcraft chores. Sabre Grind – (AKA “zero sabre grind” or “scandi”, short for “Scandanavian” grind) – The sabre is the same as a flat grind, except the bevel doesn’t extend all the way to the spine. Convex Grind. are slightly convex final edges, but since the Scandi grind leaves the knife steel somewhat thinner, the final edge is less than 25 degrees (although the grinders are still set at 25 degrees). Many knife aficionados consider a convex grind the strongest and most durable profile. A Scandi grind carries a single bevel that runs to zero degrees. Custom LTWK Knife - Genesis Scandi Grind AEB-L Steel Blade and Snakeskin Finish Handles with Red Liners and Mosaic Pins. If the grind makes the cutting edge extremely thin, your blade’s strength is significantly reduced. There is no secondary bevel. Our modified Scandi Knives (B.O.B., MSK, Scandi Trekker, etc.) This means that more of the blade is the same width as the spine, making it stronger and more durable. The convex grind is better for bushcraft for its famed durability, excellent edge retention, and cutting efficiency. Understanding Hollow, Convex, and Flat Blade Grinds Experienced Knifemaker Walter Sorrells Explains How Various Knife Grinds are Produced, and How They Affect Cutting Performance. Grind- There are tons of grinds available, but the two top choices are Scandi and Scandivex grinds. In my opinion the convex grind's best application is for saving botched scandi blades from the trash. In other words, it is a single grind only. Concave, or hollow, grinds are quick to sharpen, but delicate. I still like a large fixed blade with a convex for the same reason an axe is convex: It doesn't wedge if I chop/baton like a large Sabre/Modern Scandi, yet it still is a stronger grind overall than an FFG of the same thickness at the spine and with the same edge angle. Agreed for the most part. A convex ground blade has a curved bevel, formed by each side of the blade being ground in a shallow arc to the cutting edge, with no micro bevel added. El Gato wrote:While this topic can be highly subjective to personal opinion, in my experience and for me personally the convex grind and edge, when properly done, makes a very fine working knife in my opinion.However, the key words here are "when properly done", and in my experience this is a rare combination to find. When it comes to Scandi vs. convex for bushcraft exclusively, it will all depend on your preference. Convex grinds are ideal for … Scandi: The Scandinavian Grind is a wide flat bevel that runs to the edge of the blade, according to Ragweed Forge, and there is little or no secondary bevel. Flat grinds have a performance edge where game processing and food prep are concerned. A convex edge is slightly rounded (hence the name convex) as it tapers off to the finest point of the cutting edge along the blade. All my axes are convex. A flat grind that begins at the blade’s spine is called a “full flat grind”; a “saber grind” begins its bevel lower on the blade, and a Scandinavian (or “Scandi”) grind begins lower still. Get the Mag. There are others. All my straight razors are hollow. The standard 9 inch Genesis Scandi is crafted with 1/8" A2 Tool Steel and was already a great value at $210.00, which includes a dangler premium leather … At 10.1cm long and 3.6mm, combined with the scandi-vex, I would honestly be hard pushed to find a more suitable and fit for purpose blade for the types of work I find myself doing in the woods. There isn't much need to belabor the basics. Flat grind. A close second would be a flat grind or asymetrical grind such as the Bark River Bravos offer. If you Google image search "convex scandi grind" you'll get w good diagram of the cross-sections. Where the curvature begins (high or low on the blade) can produce a full convex, a saber convex or even a Scandi convex grind. When I want thrills, I'll drive a sports car. Scandi grinds have a flat section of the blade that … Here’s a great video series about sharpening convex blades. Like some saber grind knives as well. Convex edges can be some of the most difficult to sharpen, but the edges are extremely durable and sharp. Many of the Scandinavian blades seem to have a secondary bevel. Unlike many other grinds, the Scandi runs to the edge with no angle change in what is also known as a zero grind. The third and final type of flat grind is the Scandinavian grind. Lets start with that, as a first notice those AGR pics do not show any secondary or micro bevels. A scandi grind (or V grind) (also called a scandinavian grind) is a knife edge with a wide flat bevel that runs to the edge of the blade. clip point, spear point, etc. I like a true scandi grind for wood work, a convex for butchering/skinning/survival and a full flat with back and edge bevel tailored to the steel and the task. The grind, of course, is what makes a knife sharp. Slightly convex grinds are sturdier still, and hold an edge very well. The three most common blade grinds in use today are hollow, flat and convex, with other grinds of note are the chisel, asymmetrical, Scandi and compound. I doubt a sabre grind would cause much trouble, i've just never had a knife with a sabre grind so i'm interested in how it compares with the grind i've used most of the time (been testing a flat grind with a secondary convex recently (enzo pk70). The scandi doesn’t begin tapering until closer to the edge. (see image below): The convex knife grind utilizes a continuous curve that starts at the spine of the blade and goes all the way down to the primary cutting edge of this blade grind type. View entire discussion ( 7 comments) More posts from the knives community. Instead of curving inwards like the hollow grind, a convex grind has a rounded curve that comes to a point. Here's a hand drawn representation of a micro bevel scandi, a scandi with a secondary bevel and a zero grind scandi. A blade's grind is its cross-sectional shape in a plane normal to the edge. A convex edge features a bevel on each side of the blade, slightly rounded (convex) as they taper to form the edge. What it is: On a convex grind, the sharp edge is produced by symmetric, gently curved surfaces. In many cases you could even say that it looks like a “zero grind” or even a fat “Scandinavian grind” but it is a convex grind. A true scandi grind (no secondary bevel) is just a V shape, whereas a Scandivex grind (scandi convex) is a rounded V shape. I have found it difficult to work out which scandi grinds are zero grinds and which are not. T o sharpen the Scandi grind by hand, place the bevel flat to the sharpening stone and work on the whole edge. A convex edge is where the bevel on each side of the blade is slightly rounded (convex!) Woodwork is perhaps the only task at which the scandi grind outshines convex. It is similar to the high flat, but the taper begins even closer to the blade’s cutting edge. ... Flat grinds (including saber, scandi, and chisel grinds) Subscribe Today and Save! I don't have much experience with other grinds except for the scandi/scandi-vex. That bevel goes all the way to the end and you're supposed to lay that bevel completely flat to the sharpening stone. So the variation on a TOPS’ edge is usually between 24 and 26 degrees on each side. Convex grind. as they taper to form the edge. I can't feel any difference in use between a micro bevel scandi and a zero grind scandi. Convex Knife Grinds. This type of grind is not very durable and can dull fairly quickly. Before becoming a renowned custom knifemaker, Walter Brend was a meat cutter, the skills of … That includes things like a high-end drop point CPM-20CV steel blade with a convex grind, a pair of solid machined G-10 handle scales, and a premium leather sheath for easy hauling and transport. The primary grind may be concave, flat, or convex. It looks like a scandi grind, but instead of a straight grind, it’s curved. Most people probably aren’t going to feel comfortable spending so much money on a hard-use tool, but those that do are certainly going to be pleased with the results for years and years to come. Convex grinds are very specialized and are commonly found on heavy-duty chopping tools such as axes and machetes. Some of the more popular blade grinds are the Scandi grind, flat grind, and convex grind… Convex edges are truly difficult to accomplish by hand on a flat stone and are considered a highly specialized grind. What it is: A flat grind is a single, symmetric V-bevel — the blade tapers from a particular height on the blade and ends at the cutting edge. The kind of grind that a bushcraft knife has can change the blade’s whole dynamic, so the blade grind has to be both versatile and strong. Either of these steels may work well with a different grind, with the 1095 being more resilient and durable, and I have a few I use with a shorter (steeper) apex to help keep the edge keen. Flat grind / Sabre / Scandi. Not only is the Convex Grind one of the most durable but it also holds an edge quite well. Go for Scandi grind, chisel grind, flat grind, and convex grind but always avoid the hollow grind. What is a scandi grind? They are durable and have a … The image above shows the shape of a scandinavian grind knife edge. Flat grinds are sturdier, and simple to sharpen on basic equipment. Convex. So I really love convex style knives and they have a plethora of uses. The convex edge is considered superior compared to other edge grind types due to longer lasting durability and less drag when cutting. I didn't know that the reason for the scandi grind is that it's a guide for the angle to sharpen it on the stone. Please dig out your 2016 Spyderco catalog and turn to page 142, Blade Grinds. Grind differs from blade profile, which is the blade's cross-sectional shape in the plane containing the blade's edge and the centre contour of the blade's back (meaning the shape of the blade when viewed from the side, i.e. It is good of you all to take the trouble to educate me on these issues. Hollow grinds are excellent for skinning and dressing; a chisel grind type is fantastic for heavy woodcutting tasks such as drilling, batoning, chopping and cutting lumber. Rather than curving inward like the Hollow Grind, a Convex Grind features a rounded curve that comes to a point. Instead, the sabre grind will typically only be ground to around the mid-way point on the blade. Scandinavian Grind. Appreciate the scandi grind (got to, being of Finnish heritage) for some utility knives (first knife as a boy was a puukko). The primary angle is engineered to match the quality of the steel and intended use.